Dodge Diesel KDP Instructions



	Killer Dowel Pin Jig Instructions 1) Remove the fan hub. This is best done by using a long drift placed on the right side of the nut flats and giving it a good whack with a hammer. You can then remove the fan by holding the pulley with a pair of large water pump pliers while turning the nut clockwise with a 1 7/16" open end wrench. Spin the fan off and lower it down out of the way, no need to pull it out. *Note: the jig now comes with the fan wrench and a pulley holder, ignore some of the above. 2) Crack the six bolts (10mm) on the fan pulley; do not remove them until the belt is loose. Belt is loosened by inserting a 3/8" square drive ratchet in the tensioner arm and turning counter clock wise. A cheater bar helps. Remove belt from alternator. 3) Remove alternator top two bolts first, 10mm and 13mm, nuts are welded. Now when you go to remove the bottom bolt (13mm) you can push the alternator down, this will make the 15mm nut on this bolt easier to see. Set the alternator back towards cab, do not remove wires. 4) Remove the six bolts on the fan pulley you cracked earlier, they should turn out with you fingers. Remove the 4 bolts (10mm) that hold the fan bearing mount. Notice that the bottom bolt is longer and the far left bolt holds down a wire clamp, remember this for reassembly. Remove mount. (The wire held by clamp you just removed can be pulled forward, toward radiator, so the drill can go behind.) 4.5) Some folks have to remove their coolant reservoir, disconnect the hose and push in on the round tab facing the front while pulling up. 5) Clean the gear case side that was under the fan mount with a rag. Remove the two case bolts (10mm) adjacent to the case curve and attach the jig with them. It will only go on one way. 6) Remove the dipstick and slip the hose with the air valve over the dipstick tube. You can turn the air on quite a bit without danger of over-pressure, the excess will flow out the blow by tube. Do not block off the blowby or exceed 5 psi, blown gaskets are the result. If you don't have a compressor then a vacuum cleaner on blow duct taped to the oil fill spout with the blowby blocked works just as well. 7) Drill, countersink then tap the hole using the appropriate bushings and a cordless drill. When tapping turn back the tap Ľ turn for every ˝ turn forward. You will hear the airflow slow if you allow too many chips to accumulate in the tap. * If when drilling the hole the bit doesn't go in all the way to its stop, the dowel pin is coming out. You should still countersink and tap. A short bolt is provided with the kit to plug the hole if you don't have the new seals, gasket and time available. You will need to remove the cover and pound the pin back in ASAP, there is no way of knowing how far out the pin is, it could fall out tomorrow. After the pin is pounded back in, replace the short temporary bolt with a long one. ** 8) Blow excess chips away from the pulley and belt. Remove the jig. Remove the air valve and replace dipstick. Insert the bolt using red Loc-Tite, do not over tighten, you are going into aluminum. Unless the edge of the bolt head has been ground the bolt will look like it is in crooked. Don't worry this is normal and won't cause a problem, it's just because the bolt is going in at an angle to the case. 9) Reassemble everything using blue Loc-Tite, use anti-seize on the fan hub. You will not be able to tighten the pulley bolts easily until the belt is installed; it keeps the pulley from rotating. The easiest way to replace the belt is to put it though all its pulleys, turn the tensioner then slip the belt under the idler that rides on the back of the belt. Replace fan and tighten it.